Information
about
Hampi
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Hampi
Hampi is a little holy town divided in two areas by a river. From
Hospet and Kamalapuram you will reach the temple side with the bazar.
From there you can cross the river by boat or walking and get to the
other side: Hampi Island. You will find hundreds of boulders in both
sides of the river.
see a map here:

How
to get there
Hampi is located in south india, about 350km NW of
Bangalore, in the state of Karnataka. Hampi can be accessed from two
big cities with international airports: Bombay and Bangalore, both
located in South India. Once in the big city, Hampi can be reached by
bus, train or taxi. The most comfortable, fast but also expensive
option, is the taxi. Bus is probably the most uncomfortable
transportation. A night train is better (get a 2nd sleeper class upper
seat) but it's also very slow. In any case, expect very long trips. Our
journey from Bangalore to Hampi in a hired jeep took 8.5 hours. The "highway" is
full of big holes, some of them big enough to hold a whole car in it.
Expect to see people all along the trip, and impressive things like
naked monks enrolled in many-hundred kilometers pilgrimages. Our trip
back to Bangalore with train took 10 hours.
Best Season
November-December with very dry (but also hot) weather
is suposed to be the best climbing season. January-May is also dry but
more hot. In June the monsoon rain arrives and then it rains a lot as
indicated by the dark color bands on the big boulders of the river. We
climbed in Hampi on December and in almost four weeks we only had one
day with light rain.
The hot weather is the big drawback of Hampi as a bouldering
area. Get up very early (by the sunrise or earlier) to catch the
coolest temperatures. Have a good rest by 11 am or noon and then start
again a couple of hours before sunset. At night or early morning
it can be cold. It is actually possible to spend the whole day up
in the boulder fields since there are many boulder problems in the
shade. Take care with the sun, it's strong.
Accomodation
Nowadays both sides of the river (Bazar and Hampi
Island) are full of places to eat and sleep. In Hampi Island you will
find very good pizzas in the "Mowgli"
guest house. They also have very good vegetable biryanis (spiced rice
with vegetables). There is also a guest house called "Narguila"
serving excellent italian food. We found that this place has the most
safe food (see next section) so it is a good place to go if you are
sick (or recovering) but hungry. It also has a very nice atmosphere and
the homemade tiramisu is amazing. Good coffee and tea is served as
well. Food, beverages and accomodation at very low prices are easy to
find here and all around india.
We slept at the "Lakshmi
Golden Beach"
guest house. It's not the cheapest option but it has nice and clean
bungalows and it is quiet. The bungalows next to the rice fields are
very nice but expect milions of frogs and insects yelling at night. It
also has a big swimming pool that maybe one day will be full of water.
They also prepare good indian food.
Getting
sick in Hampi
Apparently everybody get sick in Hampi at least
one time. This usually happens during the first week of the trip and it
consists of some mixture of headache, fever, dizziness, vomits and
diarrhea. So be prepared for that and bring some medicines. The main
origin of this problem is probably the water. Tape water is very dirty
in Hampi (it is usually brown or yellow depending on the day).
Moreover, there's a lot of dirt everywhere so it's hard to keep clean.
I get sick with a bad chai (sweet milk tea with species) that in fact
had a weird taste. So in Hampi, if you feel that some food or drink is
not tasting well you better don't eat/drink it. In most cases, sickness
doesn't last more than one day and usually people just get it once in
the whole trip. If you need medical assistance there's a hospital,
which is supposed to be good, in Hospet.
The
Climbing
Probably the most common Hampi boulder problem is a
slightly overhanging face with crimps. Excellent for tanaka (campus
board) lovers. As usual in bouldering, technique is very important, but
physical strenght is probably the most important thing here. The mental
strenght is also relevant since many boulders are quite high. For
tsunami (highballs) lovers the cosmic cave area is a must. There are
also many aretes that offer amazing technical and powerfull lines like
the "90º
arete'' in the Seth Plateau or the "Goa
Corner"
boulder next to the Rishimuck plateau. The are also some sloppers and
good traverses. Roofs and specially slabs are very scarce. Hampi is
maybe not the best area for beginners since most of the boulder
problems (which are usually the most beautiful ones) are hard or very
hard (6b and beyond).
In general the rock consists of excellent orange granit with lots of
crimps. In most cases the quality of the rock is excellent although it
might be loose in some boulders (take care with the crimps in the high
top-out's when opening new problems). You will see thousands of
boulders everywhere. We heard that there are 300 square km of boulders.
However, not all of them are suitable for bouldering. Many boulders are
just too high or too steep and holdless and in many spots the boulder
fields are pure chaos: clusters of boulders very close to each other
with deadly falls. The best spots for climing are the plateaus: big
granit plains (the ground is of bulk granit!) with scattered boulders.
The main problem of the rock itself is that is quite agressive for the
skin. If you climb hard for two weeks or more you will probably get a
hole or more on the tips of your fingers unless you are very used to
granit rock. So bring a good lotion for your hands.
Bring at least one crash-pad. If you don't bring a crash-pad then you
can still rent it in the "rollo"
restaurant in Hampi Island. They are also renting climbing shoes. They
will be very grateful if you leave some of your used climbing gear at
the end of your stay.
Climbing
alternatives around Hampi
There is Badami, about 100 km NW of Hampi. Bolted,
semibolted and natural-pro routes plus some bouldering. Great potential
for more. The rock is sandstone, offering a good rest from Hampi's
granite. Is more wild than Hampi: eat-indian-cooked-rice-all-the-day
and less accomodation options.
When going to Hampi from Bangalore by the highway you will see (about
3h away from Bangalore) some impressive granite domes with scattered
boulders. A new climbing area is being developed here by indian and
foreign people. It looks like it has great potential. Check
www.rockclimbing.com for more information.
Resting
days
Visit the temples, learn how to meditate, rent a
bicycle or a motorcycle, roam in the boulder fields, explore the shops
at the bazar, contemplate the chaos of Hospet, travel to the beaches of
Gokarna or Goa, go to the artificial lake, see the ancient farming
still done in India...